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Not a VW #becauseracer (VW content is inside)

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  • Not a VW #becauseracer (VW content is inside)

    Always been a fan of build threads even with the social media movement going on. I also like documenting my own projects hence this thread.

    I have a build for my former MK1 Track car. That car is now gone and possibly somewhere on the west coast of the country. Long story short, I was still a year or so from tracking that car and I wanted to start driving as soon as I can so I bought a running car I could learn on and sold the project soon after.

    The car I bought.



    1995 Honda Civic Ex. Unfortunately not a VW but t was cheap and I did not feel bad if something happen on the track, Surprisingly clean for being a 90's Honda.

    The good thing is the car had a motor swap done already. A B20B found in Japanse Honda CRV's. It is a non-vtec motor with low HP as fas a B-series motors are concerned but better torque.



    Previous owner did some Autozone mods to the motor (Blue stuff). So I made some immediate small changes.

    Removed AC and cruise control since this was to be a "dedicated" track and summer car. Changed the intake also as the blue one did not seem very effective. A header was also installed.



    Then I threw the wheels from the rabbit on the Honda since they share the same bolt patter and have a 1mm hub difference painted the rusty hood primer and had me first track day at Grattan.







    I learned a lot and was glad I decided to learn on something like the Honda rather than the rabbit.

    After the track day I inspected the suspension and bushings. What I found was the bushings were old and needed to be replaced.

    So I replaced all the bushings in the car and front and back and replaced the control arms with camber and toe adjustable ones from TruHart. The car does have some universal style coilovers and had a rear disc Intergra GSR brake swap done.





    I also discovered I needed to replace the lower front ball joints, rear wheel bearings and the drive axles as well. I did a couple more track days to finish out the year and nothing else changed with the car.

    Over the winter or 2017 I decided to make some additional changes as I made space in my garage by selling the rabbit.

    First thing was ditching the factory steering wheel.

    I picked up a NRG short hub and SFI compliant quick release wheel hub and a Viilante steering wheel. The wheel was the diameter I wanted and inexpensive. I also pocked up a shifter extension and tall shift knob to bring the shifter closer to my hand. Radio was ditch day 1.







    And I also got some Sparco Sprint seat to keep my ass from sliding around. The Sprint=L is my passenger seat. A good friend has been helping instruct me as I learn and he is a larger fellow than myself so I figured I would do him a solid.





    Seats are attached to universal sliders and have Honda specific brackets to make putting them in and adjust-ability easy.

    I made an AC block off plate and a Radiator cooling plate to help direct air flow and keep the call cool.





    Knowing I wanted to work on the handling and not dead set on a new set of coils I picked up a Integra GSR front sway and an aftermarket 24mm rear sway bar. Also grabbed a junkyard headlight to turn it into a a air duct. I alo had to get the necessary hardware and subframe supports to avoid subframe tear out with the large bar.













    I got a pair of aftermarket OEM fenders when I purchase the car. I put them on in place of the factory fenders as I needed to roll the a bit more to clear the Federal tires and so I could eventually run a wider wheel. I also but in quick latches to make taking the bumper on and off easy. I also put on a replica Mugen front lip for looks. New tires were also fitted, Federal 595 RS-r 205/50-15





    I did another track even this time with Gridlife at Mid-ohio. The track was rainy and a bit scary but I continue to learn and that is what is important.

    After that even I swapped out the stock radiator for a thicker aluminum one as I need to switch from coolant to water and water wetter per gridlife rules. I swapped the rubber hoses to silicone and painted the cooling plate





    I also made a heatsheild for the air filter and added gold heat wrap.

    [

    Also decided to plastidip the front to get 1 color black.



    I managed to squeeze in another track day and had some issues with braking. I also noticed some immediate a longing brake fad at Mid-Ohio. All the equipment was stock and need attention next.

    I replaced the front and rear lines to Goodridge braided lines.



    I then found an put in a 1 inch brake booster from a Integra Type-r











    I made a quick phone mount so I can run Hotlap.io track timer app.





    Got in another track day. and the brakes were better but I was still running stock cheap pads. I wanted a inexpensive solution and I wanted to run a bigger rotor out front. After some internet searching I came u with the following. I would maintain the GSR rotors and brake caliper out bake but run a performance street pad out back. The from will get Integra Type-R calipers, track day pads and Mini 280 mm rotors. The mini share the same hub diameter and bolt pattern as the civic. The only difference at the lug bots holes are 14mm as opposed to 12 mm. But the Type-R requires a 282 rotor but is five lug. A five lug conversion is a 1k upgrade I did not want. The 2mm difference on the mini rotor is not noticeable.







    I went with Powerstop due to cost availability and they have been supporting me and my instructor all season at gridlife. Also the track day pad is great. It brought a whole new personal confidence in my braking allowing me to break deeper.

    Front before



    Front after



    Car received another front lip and new vinyl. Support those who support you.





    I picked up some extended wheel studs and front wheel hubs/bearings.







    Did another track day which called for more parts after.

    In an effort to replace the old worm bushings I got lower engine torque mounts.





    Got some Prosport Auxiliary gauges (OIl P, Oil T, Water T) Wired them up in the blank radio spot.









    I picked up a spare oil pan and got a weld in baffle plate ad a Oil T 1/8 bung





    And in true form I got another front lip. But I paired it with some aluminum PCI 3-inch side skirts









    I ditched the headlight duct to minimize the turbulent air forcing its way under the hood and the last gridlife event would have night sessions so I needed working headlights. I took a piece of the original filter on the car and made a duct.





    At this point I am all done with track events for the year so I am focusing on 2019 improvements.

    When I attached the Oil P sending unit originally I put it on the block with a questionable pipe. Well that ended up breaking a puking oil on a trip back and forth to work. I manage to remove all the pipe bits from the block and purchases a adapter from Tractuff that allow me to run the stock Oil warning and remote mount my Aftermarket Oil P sending unit.







    I then made a shifter plate ditching the shift boot



    I heat wrapped the header and test pipe





    The car over heated on the last gridlfe event. That was enough for me to pull the trigger on a larger radiator from the Integra GSR. With cooling in mind a Oil cooler and more efficient power steering was also purchased.







    The larger radiator requires some cutting and brackets to fit. There is a kit but ut was back ordered and I am impatient at times...this being one of the, SO I fitted the coolers and made some ducting to help the air flow where I wanted it to.







    Grabbed some Jegs AN hose and fittings



    One of many final fits



    I got some Aerocatch hood pins to replace the stock latch that was occasionally bothersome to use. Car was de-stickered and is being de-plastidipped also.





    It too time to find a oil sandwich plate that was going to work. The motor has a water pipe that makes using a shallow plate possible. I found a local company that makes plates for Subarus that come with a space. The cooler thread pitch is the same between the 2 motor and it was priced accordingly.



    After my 2nd track day I was driving the car home and it cut out. Was not sure what had happened but it started after about 10 minutes and ran fine. Then 3 weeks later it died again just driving it through town. With more looking into it the igniter went bad. The Distributor on B series honda's are not all the reliable. I managed to find via social media a few companies that would allow me to run a Coil pack type ignition system.

    I needed a coil pack plate to hole the packs in place.



    The ECU had a HondaRulez daughter board installed and I got a wiring harness, coil packs and a distributor cap the complete the package.





    I dissected the distributor as the internal components (igniter and coil) were not needed. ad installed the cap.





    I ran the harness connect the the ECU and fired the car to make sure everything worked.



    The ignition harness was wrapped in Raychem DR-25 heat shrink. Which prompted me to redo the gauge harness in the same covering for some uniformity. I added Deutsche DT connectors.





    I replaced the remaining rubber coolant hoses with silicone parts. The Upper silicone hose needs to be replaced due to the new radiator.



    I pulled the intake manifold off to finalize the oil cooler install. I have a thermal gasket to install as well.



    I picked up a Chase Bays kit to de-power the Power Steering rack. I did/do like my PS but a friend that instructs for NASA who also drives a K swapped civic mention better feeling without the PS so I am going to give it a try. I can put the PS back in if I hate it.





    Pay not attention to the filter, its will be replaced.

    I finished the oil cooler lines and placed the manifold on just for a quick mock up.





    And this is where I am at. I need to tighten everything down from the PS to the radiator. Once that is complete a larger capacity Moroso oil pan will be purchased and installed. The goal is just to continue learning and improve the cars reliability. I will add more power (Vtec head, cams) next winter. The car is not fast, but it has been solid and has been fun.

    I do wish I was able to finish the rabbit but time was not on my side as I was wanting to get behind the wheel rather than just behind the wench. I will update as need if anyone is interested in following along.

    For VW content, I did purchase a 2014 VW Touareg in 2017 and it has towed the civic to all of the 2018 track events. It will get a few upgrades as the tow rig also to be documented here.





    Thanks for looking more to come...
    Dameon-
    11 Jetta SE
    82 rabbit GTI

  • #2
    Looks awesome. It's been some time since there was a good build thread on here. Cheers to you for that and also hosting pics in a way that I can view them at work.
    A big Ford 4x4, a Deeeeezle BMW and a air cooled flat six
    PCA# 2014080243

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    • #3
      Yes! Bravo..your posts are always inspiring. Keep the content coming!!
      '93steVoR6 : '92SLd : '90g6d : '58 gypsi : '59scab : '60dlx
      >> VAG-COM & Tow Dolly For Rent <<
      Parting Out: MK3s, Passats & Corrados

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      • #4
        Looks like another fun project. Those old Civics make good track cars. The aftermarket runs deep. VW or not, nice build thread.
        Bad decisions make excellent stories.

        Brian

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        • #5
          Thank you gentleman, I appreciate the positive feedback.

          Since it is the new year and Gridlife events begin in April I got some more things checked off for the year.

          I install a baffled and larger Moroso oil pan. Hold 5.5 quarts over the 4 quarts stock. With the oil cooler too I have about 2.5 quarts of added oil.



          Installed with some Gold heat wrap.



          I also picked up an adjustable shifter for the car. There is a lot of shifter movement for B series Honda's. I already have poly bushing so I hope this tightens the last little bit up.





          Threw some Wrinkle black paint on the radiator cooling plate and mounts.



          Since I started pulling the Plastidip off I also pulled the Powerstop vinyl off the side as well. I expect to get new vinyl from Powerstop later this year but wanted to put something on the car. I also picked up another set of wheels. It is a mix-matched set for 15x8's so an inch wider that the TR I ran last year and will still use this year, But so far this is what I cam up with.

          Front wheels are 15x8 Konig Dekagram 10-12lbs and rear are 15x8 Enkei 92's 15lbs. They will be wrap in some used R888's I picked up for cheap but have some life left.



          Aside from replacing the battery and painted the fenders and hood black I am pretty set for the first track day. I need another set of brakes and hope to purchase a trailer in the next coming months. I have already started planning for changes to next year.





          The motor is a K24A1 out of a 2002-2004 Honda CRV I picked up a while ago for cheap, I was not sure I wanted to use to but I have convinced myself otherwise recently. I picked up some parts for it already such as a RSX intake manifold, Civic pulley/water pump and wiring harness from a Honda Element. The plan is to be budget friendly with this motor swap. I will gain roughly 40hp and 30tq over the current B series motor and add VTEC with keeping the cost around what it would be to change the Head and transmission on my current motor to gain more HP.

          More to come.
          Dameon-
          11 Jetta SE
          82 rabbit GTI

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